All information from Antigua Guatemala
Saturday September 4th 2010

 

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Lake Atitlán: A Mayan Mosiac

A tourist at Lake Atitlán enjoys the scenic view from Club Ven Aca's infinity pool in Jaibalito. Photo by Laura McNamara.

Fifteen Mayan villages are scattered around the shores of Lake Atitlán, cozily nestled within the lake’s surrounding crags. Each village is distinctive in its charm. With the lakes three captivating giants – Volcan Atitlán, Volcan Tolimán and Volcan San Pedro – the lakeside pueblos create a culturally colorful Mayan mosaic, which rings Lake Atitlán’s mesmerizing waters.

Panajachel, or “Pana,” is the largest of the lakeside villages and represents the tourist “hot spot.” Here visitors will find the largest collection of hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars, and night clubs. For those eager to stock up on memorabilia, the town’s main street, Calle Santander, is overflowing with handcrafted souvenirs.

The backpacker-favorite, San Pedro La Laguna, represents the second most-popular lakeside destination. Most low-budget travelers make their way to the opposite side of the lake by taking the local lancha – a small motorized boat that represents the best mode of transportation around the lake. Spanish schools are popular here and offer backpackers the chance to glimpse the traditional, Maya way-of-life through week long home stays with a local family. San Pedro also represents “base camp” for making the scenic, yet strenuous hike up the lake’s infamous “Indian’s Nose” crag.

Santa Cruz La Laguna is also popular with the backpackers. The Iguana Perdida Hostel provides those wanting to get a more “in depth” exploration of Lake Atitlán the chance to dive below the surface of the mysterious water-filled crater. Recently, remnants of ancient Mayan villages have been found beneath the blue-turquoise waters and archeologists are currently investigating the submerged village of Sambaj.

A backpacker enjoys a typical boat ride on the local lancha at Lake Atitlán. Photo by Laura McNamara.While yoga is practiced at Santa Cruz La Laguna, the lake’s true meditation hideaway is San Marcos La Laguna. Most that visit this peaceful pueblo are looking for a relaxing, spiritual escape. However, adventure-seeking backpackers are known to stop by in the afternoons to go cliff jumping with the local, Maya children.

Jaibalito is little known to most visitors. But visitors who venture to the sleepy village will be rewarded with the chance to soak up the sun and admire a stunning view of the Lake’s three volcanoes from Club Ven Aca’s infinity pool. Purchase a cocktail or a gourmet meal and enjoy the pool for free.

Two villages that rest on the East side Lake Atitlán provide visitors a wonderful glimpse into local Guatemalan customs. Watch Maya women craft hand-woven goods with their back strap looms in Santa Catarina Palopó. In San Antonio Palopó visitors spy a more modern, wooden loom in most homes. The pueblo is also known for its beautiful ceramics.

The most remote village on the lake is Santiago de Atitlán. Yet, the pueblo is widely known for its devout worship of Maximón. The legendary Maximón represents a fusion of a traditional Mayan saint and the Catholic equivalent (San Simón) that was forced upon the Maya culture during the Spanish conquest. Those who worship Maximón offer the idol cigarettes, beer, spirits and cigars in exchange good health, good crops, counseling in marital affairs and more.

The Majesty of Lake Atitlan

View of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala. Photo by Laura McNamara.

It might sound cliche, but when you finally glimpse the shimmering turquoise-blue waters between the breaks in the jagged landscape of the Guatemalan Highlands, you catch your breath. The beauty of Lake Atitlán is, as one famous English writer alluded, overwhelming:

“Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlán is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes,” Aldous Huxley wrote. “It really is too much of a good thing.”

Visiting Lake Atitlán feels as if you are stepping into the romantic landscape of a great epic movie. The lake, caught in a volcanic abyss, is formed from a volcanic cone that collapsed 84,000 years ago. The expansive and mysterious lake is surrounded not only by a ring of majestic, craggy mountains but also three additional looming volcanoes. Atitlán is considered to be the deepest lake in Central America, with estimates of its maximum depth ranging up to 340 meters.

Young Maya girl in typical dress in Jaibalito, Guatemala off the shores of Lake Atitlan. Photo by Laura McNamara.

Aside from representing one of Guatemala’s most notable natural gems, the lake is also renowned for the abundance of Mayan villages that thrive near its shores. Visitors delight in the traditional Maya dress of which even men are spotted wearing – colorfully woven vests and pants. Tz’utujil and Kaqchikel are the two most common Mayan languages spoken near lake.

The lakeside village of Panajachel is the most common stop for tourists and the local residents have become almost entirely dependent upon tourism. Rows of stalls filled with hand-painted candle holders, unique jewelry, woven handbags and woolen coats greet visitors scouting for the perfect souvenir…

Mangroves in Monterrico

Cars traveling on a small ferry  through the Mangroves of Monterrico. Photo by Laura McNamara.

Part of the adventure of traveling to Monterrico is the breezy boat ride through mangrove swamps. While those in cars can opt to cross a bridge that will take them past rusty, sunken ships, travelers taking the chicken bus will invariably end up on a small, motorized boat for the last part of their trek to the beach. (Those traveling by car can still take the scenic mangroves boat ride by catching a small ferry like that pictured above.) Guatemala is home to three species of mangrove, including black (Avicennia germinans), white (Laguncularia racemosa) and red (Rhizophora mangle). Guatemala’s National Council of Protected Areas (CONAP) reports that each species is an endangered one. More than 100 species of birds can be spotted in the Pacific Coast Lowlands or the Chiapas-Guanacaste region, with elegant white egrets being among the most commonly spotted birds on the mangrove trip. An egret with a freshly caught fish in the mangroves of Monterrico. Photo by Laura McNamara.Visitors particularly interested in the wildlife of the mangroves can hire local guides in Monterrico to lead them on an early morning mangrove boat tour.

The expansive stretch of beach in Monterrico offers a prime breeding ground for four species of sea turtles. However, poaching of sea turtle eggs is quite common among the local population. There are several turtle conservation organizations that try to combat poaching and promote sea turtle preservation and protection. During the months of October and November, tourists have the opportunity to search for sea turtle eggs and donate them to the conservation organizations. Lucky visitors can even witness sea turtles hatch and scramble from their nest on the beach to their life in the sea.

Escape to Monterrico

Palms at Monterrico's black sand beach. Photo by Laura McNamara.

Que rico Monterrico! Most tourists are quick to pick up on the local beach town slogan. For many, it is the first time they have visited a volcanic, black sand beach. Monterrico represents one of the most popular beaches for a quick, coastal escape in Guatemala. Much of Monterrico’s charm comes from its raw, refreshingly under-developed atmosphere. Instead of flashy, manicured resorts, soak up the sun with an oversized, yet inexpensive “Pura Vida” in hand. The hangout favorite, Johnny’s Place, offers a large selection of original tropical smoothie concoctions. Waves breaking at Monterrico Beach. Photo by Laura McNamaraRelax on a shaded hammock or a bed of soft cushions while enjoying the warm sea breeze. Those wanting to stay the night can rent a bed, a small bungalow or even a house from the laid-back beach bar-restaurant-hostel, which does transform into a dance party on weekend nights.

Be careful in the Monterrico surf. The waves forcefully break upon a significantly steep-sloping beach, crashing in a cracking thunder. Strong swimmers will enjoy the excellent body surfing conditions, while those that stick to the sand can opt to join locals and fellow tourists in a friendly match of sand volleyball or sand soccer.

Walking through town offers observers a good window into the typical local lifestyle, nearly unspoiled by the steady trickle of tourism. Sip the sweet water from a coco helado (iced coconut) for just Q10 to stay refreshed in the steamy, tropical heat.

Rusty sunken ship at an inlet in Monterrico. Photo by Joaquin Ruano.

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